The deburring process should include addressing not just rivet holes but all perimeter edges, large holes and any internal openings in a sheet. I am going to focus just on deburring small rivet holes. A metal airplane has thousands of them, and this is where most of the builder’s effort is expended.

The most common tool used for hole deburring is the swivel countersinking tool. A popular model is the Avery “speed deburring” model shown here. There are other brands and variations of this design available from your favorite aviation tool supplier.

This hand tool is made of two parts: a simple handle with a swivel shaft and a cutting (deburring) fluted bit that screws into the swivel shaft. While it may be obvious to guess that this tool will be rotated after inserting it into a drilled hole, we should pay attention to what is happening as that bit cuts away at the holes. This deburring bit is a variation of a countersinking cutter bit. These are normally used to countersink holes for flush rivets or screws to be installed. They come in various diameters with specific cutting angles and grind away just the right amount of metal from a hole so that countersunk rivets and screws install flush with the metal surface. So why does a variation of a countersinking bit make a good hole deburrer?

The deburring bit diameter is sized a bit larger (3/8-inch or more) than the rivet hole. If we make just one turn of that bit (using the swivel handle) in the rivet hole while applying moderate pressure, we have just begun the countersinking process. While we do not want to countersink our holes, this operation does a good job of removing material (burrs) above the edge of the hole. Just one turn should do it. If you keep rotating the bit, you start to countersink—which is not what we want. So, proper use of this tool means no more than one rotation of the swivel handle while visiting each rivet hole.

While countersinking a hole in thick metal is desirable if you want to install flush screws and rivets, it is not acceptable in thin sheet metal. (Proper countersinking requires a bit that is matched to the specific hole size—deburring does not.) When flush rivets and screws are desired with thin sheet metal, we dimple the hole. Dimpling deforms the hole, but it does not remove material. The danger in countersinking holes in thin material is that it leaves the thickness inside the hole’s edge razor thin. What we know about razor-thin edges on aluminum is that they are great stress risers. Stress risers may attract cracks that can ruin your flight. So, one turn of the swivel tool is all that should be needed for deburring!

The deburring bit is also available with a short shank that can be used in a drill motor instead of the hand swivel. I cringe when I see deburring done this way on thin metal skins as there is little control in keeping the rotations down to one. If deburring holes in thicker aluminum L angle, for example, the concern of potential countersinking becomes less of an issue. This is the same with deburring holes in steel parts where it is much harder to remove material compared to aluminum.

The swivel deburring tool is a popular means of quickly deburring your drilled holes prior to assembly. You can literally see the burs break off from the holes and the process takes about a second per hole. I have found it advantageous to lift the sheet slightly off the table to allow the center point of the deburring bit to protrude through the hole to gain full contact. Don’t forget to deburr both sides of your holes if this is needed.

Another way to make use of this deburring technique without this tool is to use a drill bit instead. (The bit should be about 3/8-inch or larger diameter.) Wrap some tape around the flutes so you don’t cut your hand. Simply rotate the bit in the hole (one turn for thin sheets) and the deburring process is completed. If you have lots of holes to work on, you may find the swivel handle tool to be less stressful on your hand. Your choice! Plane and Simple.

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Building a metal aircraft? You’re probably going to be cutting a bunch of sheet metal parts from time to time. If you are not building a metal aircraft, there is still a good chance you will be called upon to create some parts using sheet aluminum. What we all need is a tool to make clean cuts in aluminum sheet. However, the best tool for cutting sheet aluminum may not be so obvious if we take our cues from online aircraft tool suppliers.

The cutting tool we need goes by several names: aviation snips, tin snips, metal shears and more. Aside from aircraft construction, these cutting tools are used with all types of metals in various industries (think of fabricating heating ducts for your furnace as an example). As aircraft builders, we have a specific use for these multi-material cutting tools—usually cutting thin sheet aluminum. This specific use of these tools means that not all tin snips are created equal for builders.

Viewing online aircraft tool catalogs would lead one to believe that the cutting tool of choice is the one shown on top in the picture below—the ubiquitous aviation-style hand snips. The “aviation” part of the name signifies that it is constructed with a dual pivoting design. This provides power for cutting thick materials by way of the leverage gained from the pivots. If you look really, really closely at the blades, you will see a light serration (saw-like appearance). This also aids in cutting tough materials. With very careful scrutiny, you can see that a tooth-like impression has been left on the metal these snips cut. Aviation snips come in left, right and straight versions, with color-coded handles for easy identification.

If you are already familiar with using this style of cutting snips, then you know that the difference in choosing a right or left version has to do with what side of the metal gets curled away while cutting. If cutting a narrow strip of metal from a wider piece, we typically want the narrow piece to curl out of the way while cutting. The shape of the blades controls the direction (up or down) of this curling process. If you choose the “wrong” tool (left instead of right, for example) the cutting experience can be awkward as you hold the sheet.

It turns out there is a much better tool for cutting thin sheet aluminum. Notice the large scissors-style shear next to the aviation version in the picture. You can usually find this model at your favorite aviation tool vendor, but you may have to really search for it. It is made by Malco as well as Klein Tools, among others (also available at Amazon). It has no official name that I am aware of, other than snips or aluminum snips. After I started using this tool 20 years ago, I rarely use aviation snips when cutting thin sheet aluminum. Here is why.

The blades are more than twice as long as the other variety, so each motion of your hands provides for a longer, straighter cut (less starting and stopping to get to the other side). There are no serrations on the blade—so your work is not left with a bumpy ridge that needs to be filed down. That is a big plus! Your cut material is ready for use and the edges look very nice. There is no concept of left and right, so the curling of the cut material is intuitive. It operates just like a scissors—we need no training for using them!

Are there any downsides to using these big scissors snips? Yes. I have not thrown away my aviation shears because if you are cutting anything other than thin aluminum sheet, you better hold onto those conventional snips. Once the aluminum sheet gets thicker than about 0.035 inch, you will need hands stronger than average to operate. You cannot cut materials other than aluminum without potential problems. There is a good reason that aviation snips have serrations, multi-point pivots and small curved blades—they really work good on tough materials (steel, fiberglass, thick aluminum, etc.). But if you are cutting a large panel from aluminum sheet that needs a professional, straight edge with no further dressing, then these large scissor snips are tops.

I normally would not make a big deal about comparing tools for cutting if I didn’t think there was a significant difference between these models. It is surprising to see so many fellow builders not have these snips available for their sheet cutting work. Almost every tool supplier seems to push the aviation style first and foremost in their online marketing. After years of working on metal aircraft projects I can attest that you should appreciate the difference in results between these two styles of cutting tools. Give them a try! Plane and Simple.

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We use quite a few small machine screws in our homebuilt projects. These small screws might be found, for example, holding the instrument panel together with all its miscellaneous brackets and mounts. Other uses for these fasteners are quite numerous and varied including inspection cover panels, trim pieces, etc. Every screw requires a corresponding nut for attachment. This can come in the form of a nut, nut plate, nut clip, rivnut or simply a threaded hole.

The advantage of using a screw over a rivet as a fastener is the ability to easily remove it as desired. This allows us to inspect, repair or maintain an area of the aircraft without delay or challenge. In fact, someday you might wish you had not used rivets in some part of your aircraft for this very reason. There is an endless need to take things apart. More screws and less rivets if the structure allows!

Using nuts with machine screws is the common standard where it makes sense. Sometimes using nuts is not possible when access to them is not possible or not easy. The next set of choices include installing a nut plate or, if possible, tapping the material with appropriate threads to match the screw. This eliminates the nut or nut plate altogether. Often this tapping procedure is overlooked because of the complexity and time needed to implement. Who wants to drill and then carefully run a tap through dozens of holes? It also takes a long time to complete. We need a way to speed up the drill-tapping procedure so many holes can be completed in short order.

There is a unique drill bit that can both drill and tap holes simultaneously in very short order. How fast? The total time to complete a drilled and threaded hole is just moments longer than just drilling the hole!

A closer look at this type of bit—called a drill tap bit—reveals that a thread cutter is located just beyond the drilling portion of the bit. This means that the drilling procedure includes the tapping operation moments later. After the bit cuts the threads into the hole, you must stop and reverse the drill, backing the bit out of those new threads. The drilling and tapping are one continuous operation.

These drill tap bits require you to use a slow drill speed (about 300 rpm). It is good practice, but not required, to drill a pilot hole first. Each bit drills and taps for a specific screw size. I have been practicing with #6, #8 and #10 machine screws (32 threads per inch). As you might expect, tapping very thin sheet metal becomes problematic as there is not enough room for multiple threads. Aluminum sheet as thin as 0.063-inch thickness seems adequate for small screws.

This fast tapping doesn’t change existing engineering standards for the strength available when tapping thin materials. Looking carefully at these bits, you can also see that the last part of the cutting shank is designed to create a chamfer into the tapped hole. This is useful when using countersunk-head screws. So, there are really three distinct operations that can be performed before backing the bit out.

These bits are available from the likes of Amazon as well as any good tool supplier. They have been around for a long time. They are well suited for the aluminum we use when building our aircraft. I would not expect them to hold up well when tapping steel of any considerable thickness.

Remember that tapping using conventional tools into steel requires slow, careful rotation of the tap with repeated backing out to clear burrs. In contrast, drill tap bits go in fast and back out only once! So, limiting these bits to aluminum is our expectation. Once you try one of these and experience how easy and fast it is to tap, you will find yourself using machine screws more often. Leave the rivets for those aircraft areas that never come apart. Plane and simple!

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It is common practice for builders to cut openings in aluminum aircraft structures. Popular examples include creating inspection or access panels in the wings and fuselage or adding openings in the instrument panel to make way for another instrument. Whether these cutout openings are included in the original kit design or are added by the builder to improve accessibility or customization, it is important to understand the proper methods required for making cuts into the aircraft.

The aluminum that holds your aircraft together is naturally under some degree of mechanical stress. The thickness of an aluminum skin, for example, is chosen by the designer to ensure there is enough strength to keep things together. Although we cannot see them, the internal stresses on that skin span in many directions as lines of force. They may be pulling, pushing or twisting. The aluminum holds together as long as these stresses are within the design limits. So, what happens to these stresses when we cut an opening in that skin?

An opening cut for an inspection panel is often rectangular in shape. This means that there will be corners where the edges of the opening meet. It is these corners that are the focus of concern! The lines of force we mentioned previously get sharply concentrated (magnified) at these corners. Think of the force lines as being interrupted by the corners as they flow through the material. In addition to inside corners, other irregularities like a groove, notch, nick or scratch can potentially concentrate these forces. In this discussion we are concerned about the effect of introducing corners into the aluminum material.

This concentration of forces, also known as a stress riser, is what we want to avoid adding to our aircraft’s structure. If the forces become too great, the metal can fail. The most common form of failure for a corner stress riser is a crack developing at that corner. The crack may then grow with resulting disaster. Repeated flexing of metal (fatigue) caused by the vibrations from the engine, for example, can result in mechanical failure at a stress riser location. Brittle materials (aluminum) are more prone to this failure than ductile ones (steel, generally speaking).

So, if we want to eliminate stress concentrations, do we need to eliminate the use of corners? The answer is that it is a matter of degree—a sharp corner is the most powerful stress riser. As the corner is rounded (radiused), the level of stress at that location goes down. The larger the radius, the less concentration of stress. The simple solution is to avoid sharp corners—always. This is really an easy task when it comes to creating your opening. Here are some examples.

If you have a sharp-cornered opening already in place, take a small round file to it. By rounding out and eliminating those sharp corners, the stress concentration is drastically reduced. The larger the radius you can make, the better.

The best situation is to plan the round corners in advance. With this method, the resulting cut will look better too. Simply drill large-diameter holes first so that the intersecting edges you cut next will blend in. This also allows a saw blade to easily cut from one hole to the next. Make those holes as large as you can stand!

By designing your access openings with large radiused corners in advance, you will maintain nearly the original strength of your structure for its life. Take note of every opening you see on an aircraft and notice the lack of sharp corners. By remembering that stress risers are caused by inside corners, notches, nicks and other irregularities, you can keep ahead of potentially dangerous situations in your aircraft building. Plane and simple!

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If you are building an aircraft kit that requires drilling holes into metal parts, there is no doubt that the subject of deburring will get mentioned more than once! I have yet to meet a builder who honestly looks forward to the task of deburring. It is more often that I hear the suggestion that some builders think deburring is not really required. If we understand the reasons behind the deburring process, we will then appreciate performing that task. Let’s cut to the chase and discuss the reasons we need to deburr our holes and the consequences of skipping this step while building.

Life would be so much simpler if the act of drilling a hole in a piece of metal left nothing but a clean hole. Unfortunately, the reality is that most drilled holes possess a ragged ridge around their edge. The reasons for the creation of this ridge are numerous and can be controlled to an extent. This raised area around the hole is also known as a burr and is easily seen in the photo (note the smaller hole). The act of deburring is the removal of this ridge and any other irregularities in that area. But why is it so important to remove this ridge? How can it possibly do our aircraft any harm?

The holes we create will generally be filled with a fastener such as a rivet or bolt. We generally want our fasteners to stay tight for the life of our aircraft! The burr that is left after drilling a hole will keep the head of the bolt or rivet from contacting the metal surface—almost like a crude washer. But unlike a washer, the burr is not a solid or consistently formed spacer. It will crush when setting the rivet or tightening the bolt. There will be no solid grip between the fastener head and surface of the metal. Eventually, this burr may break and fall out. This leaves the fastener just a little loose! You could tighten a loose bolt—but a rivet has no retightening feature so it will forever be loose. Not a good thing for an airplane structure. If only a couple of rivets are a tiny bit loose, it is probably not a major concern. However, if you never deburr any holes then potentially there might be thousands of rivets that are not holding things as tight as they could or should. The bottom line is that we want the head of our fasteners to be tight against their holding surfaces. Only a hole with no burrs or ridges fits this requirement.

Another potential problem we want to avoid is crack propagation. What is that? My favorite analogy to understand how insidious this action can be is to take a piece of clear packing tape between your fingers as shown in the picture. Pull as hard as you can—you may not have the strength to tear it apart. Then place a tiny, tiny nick on the edge of the tape with a pair of scissors, for example. Pull again. This time, without effort, the tape breaks into two pieces as the tiny nick propagates into a crack that travels all the way through the piece in your hands. It’s rather amazing how the immense strength of the tape is quickly compromised with a tiny cut!

The same is true with sheet metal. Any edge of the metal, whether the perimeter edge of a sheet or the edges that surround the inside of each and every hole in that sheet, has a potential location for a propagating crack. Jagged burrs can be thought of as tiny nicks that could propagate into a crack. This is why we need to deburr the perimeter edges of our metal sheets as well as every hole we drill. The vibrations and stresses imposed on our aircraft structures are not unlike you pulling on that packing tape. We don’t want a simple crack caused by an edge irregularity to undo all of our work!

By keeping in mind that deburring holes and metal edges ensures that our fasteners stay tight and that edge cracks will not easily form, we are building a much better, stronger and reliable aircraft structure. Yes, it can be tedious, but deburring significantly adds to the integrity of the overall aircraft structure. It is a worthwhile expenditure of effort. Plane and simple!

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Solid rivets (as contrasted to pulled or “pop” rivets) have four basic characteristics: a diameter, a length, a material and a head style. That’s it! Now let’s see how these four aspects get translated into a numbering system. Use the images shown here to help make sense of this system.

Just like aircraft nuts and bolts, rivets used in your aircraft start with the AN or MS prefix. This means they are designed and manufactured to strict standards for aircraft use. The AN or MS designators are identical and interchangeable.

The head style comes first. This three-digit number is an industry method to signify whether the rivet’s head is either flat (countersunk) or domed (known as universal) in shape. There are several possible variations of heads available, but the good news is that only two are commonly used in homebuilt kits: the flattop countersunk rivet (100° angle) identified by 426 and the domed universal top identified by 470. These are the only two numbers you need to remember, so memorize them!

The material the rivet is made from comes next. While there are plenty of metal alloys that can be used to make rivets, the most common used in aircraft rivets is an aluminum alloy known as 2117 that is identified by the letters AD in the rivet number. This specific alloy is chosen because of its yield strength and its ability to be deformed when we “set” it in place. The second most popular aluminum alloy used for rivets in our homebuilts is 1100 aluminum. This much softer metal will use an “A” instead of the “AD.” Are we able to identify the type of metal used by looking at the rivet? Yes, the AD rivet has a very tiny dimple in the center on the top of its head. An “A” rivet will have no marking on its head.

Of course, just like a bolt, a rivet needs to have its diameter specified. The fourth position in the rivet number is the diameter specified in 1/32 of an inch. Unlike bolts, there are far fewer commonly used rivet diameters in a typical homebuilt. For example, 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32 inch are popular diameters. These three diameters are signified by the numbers 3, 4 and 5 respectively.

The last position is left for the actual length of the rivet, specified in 1/16 of an inch. For example, a 4 would translate to 4/16 or ¼ inch long. Just like bolts, determining the length of the rivet we need to use will depend on the grip dimension needed for the joint being made. That requires a detailed discussion for another time.

It is natural to be perplexed by the rather unintuitive numbering system that rivets use when we are first exposed to them. Whether taking inventory of the parts in our kit—or ordering rivets from an aircraft supply house—we need to feel comfortable quickly identifying the size and types of these fasteners. With a little practice using the information here, you can quickly speak the rivet identification lingo with other builders and make your kit construction less challenging! Plane and simple.

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If you are building a fabric-covered aircraft, you have multiple fabrics to choose from: polyester, Dacron, Stits, Ceconite, Poly-Fiber, Superflite or Oratex. Which one should you use? What are the differences—or similarities—between them? Have you ever been confused by these terms? Let’s cover this topic once and for all. The most surprising fact is, with the exception of Oratex, they all are names for the same basic material.

In the early days of aviation, fabric aircraft were covered with cotton or linen, two natural fibers that both come from growing plants. Nowadays, aircraft fabric is made from synthetic materials due to their superior qualities, including strength and endurance. These modern materials are what we will discuss here.

Polyester is a thermoplastic made primarily from petroleum. It can be fashioned into fibers and woven into a fabric. We are all familiar with clothing articles made from this man-made material and the way it feels and wears. Its durability is a favorite trait. Polyester would be a very generic term for describing aircraft fabric.

Dacron is a brand name and is produced by DuPont. It is a proprietary recipe for making polyester. DuPont’s chemical formula for polyester has some wonderful qualities engineered into it. For example, it resists mold and mildew and it repels water. Dacron is a more accurate term to use to describe the polyester fabric that covers your aircraft.

Now it turns out that DuPont does not manufacture aircraft fabric. They license the formula to manufacturers that create the material. So, who actually makes Dacron fabric for your aircraft?

Two companies that have factories (mills) creating this fabric are Consolidated Aircraft Coatings and Superflite. Both of these companies manufacture the same Dacron material, but there are differences in the way the material is woven (like varying the threads per inch and other details). This results in some very subtle differences between the fabrics that may be noticed when covering an aircraft.

Consolidated Aircraft Coatings sells their products under two brand names: Ceconite and Poly-Fiber. The actual fabric is identical for both brands. There is no difference other than a brand marking on the fabric. So, as an example, if you tell someone that your aircraft is covered in Ceconite, you are being very specific about identifying the manufacturer of your Dacron polyester fabric.

There is also a fabric some builders call “Stits.” Ray Stits was the founder of the company that is now Poly-Fiber. His name sometimes is used in place of the fabric sold by Poly-Fiber (which is made by Consolidated Aircraft Coatings)!

Both manufacturers (Consolidated Aircraft Coatings and Superflite) make Dacron polyester fabric in three varieties of fabric weight. The lightest weight fabric is often used on ultralights, and the middle weight is most commonly used on homebuilt aircraft.

Let’s see if we can shrink this down to a single sentence. The next time someone tries to explain what type of fabric covering they are using, you now know that they are describing some version of DuPont’s Dacron polyester material, manufactured by either Consolidated Aircraft Coatings or Superflite, and possibly rebranded as Ceconite or Poly-Fiber (which was originally founded by Ray Stits).

All of these fabrics require various coatings and paint to complete the installation process. If you’d like an easier alternative, Oratex (from Better Aircraft Fabric) is a modified polyester fabric that has UV protection and a color coat added at the factory. Just glue it down, shrink it, and you’re done!

If your plane is covered with fabric, it’s good to have choices.

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Your aircraft’s engine requires monitoring of various temperatures for you to know that it will continue to purr along reliably for the entire flight. The engine systems usually monitored include oil, water, cylinder head (CHT) and exhaust gas (EGT) in order to make sure they fall within acceptable temperature limits. Falling outside of those limits is a reason for some immediate corrective action. We read these temperatures on a mechanical or electronic gauge—but how do temperatures get from the engine to the instrument panel?

The most common method for taking temperatures is to use a wonderfully simple device called a thermocouple. Usually taking the shape of a probe (sometimes a ring), this small instrument is placed in contact with the material to be measured. It can accurately sense temperature in fluids (oil, water), solids (metal) and gases (exhaust). The thermocouple is an electrical device, creating a tiny voltage that rises with temperature. How does it work? What do we have to know about it when installing and wiring it up in our homebuilt?

The thermocouple is one of those amazingly simple devices that harness a wonder of Mother Nature. In 1821, a German physicist, Thomas Johann Seebeck, discovered that if you simply join two dissimilar metals together, a voltage is created at the joint, and the voltage rises with the temperature. That’s it! If you were to look inside one of your $50 thermocouple probes, you would find two wires bonded together. Nothing more. The magic of reading temperatures has to do with understanding the voltages created when using specific metals in those wires leading up to the joint. While many types of metals can be used for those two wires, the industry has standardized on specific metal alloys so that voltages and temperatures can be predicted for accurate temperature readings.

You may have heard of K type thermocouples (look at details when purchasing). This is a popular standard that uses two wires. One is made of a metal alloy called Chromel and the other of Alumel. Engineers have tested the voltages, which are generated to specific temperatures found at the junction of these metals. These values are recorded in charts so the circuit designer can calculate temperatures.

In order to determine the temperature at the wire junction (inside an EGT probe, for example), a thermocouple circuit is required. For a K type thermocouple, a length of Chromel wire is joined with a length of Alumel wire (this junction is hidden inside the probe). This junction is the “hot” end. At the other end of these wires (which can be any length and their temperature doesn’t matter) is where we take the voltage measurement. This is the “cold” end. If we know the temperature of the cold end as well as the voltage on the wires, we can use the K type engineering charts to determine the temperature of the hot junction. The principle can be generalized: If we know the temperature of either end (junction) and the voltage across the wires, we can determine the temperature of the other end.

What is important for us as builders to remember is that if the wires from our K type thermocouple are not long enough to reach the instrument panel, it is important to use the correct wire metal as an extension. If you use plain copper wire, you will have added a new dissimilar metal in a joint with both the Alumel and Chromel wire! This will alter the voltage and ruin the accuracy of the temperature reading. (The exception is if all joints always have the same temperature—which is rarely the case. Think: some joints near the engine exhaust pipes and others behind the instrument panel.) What we want to do is extend the Chromel wire with more Chromel wire—and the Alumel wire with more Alumel wire. This is what defines type K thermocouple wire. Amazon carries plenty of this wire; search for type K thermocouple wire. Solder your joints or twist them together. A bonus: The length and temperature of the wiring does not matter if you keep the wires a consistent material.

If you want to have some fun, you can play with (I mean test) your thermocouples before putting them into action on your engine. Inexpensive thermocouple meters are available from Amazon that provide a digital temperature readout of any thermocouple. This is a great way to test your installation or troubleshoot erroneous readings from your instrument panel. Set the meter to type K and look for an immediate reading. Put your probe in ice water or a boiling pot to check the accuracy from a predictable temperature source.

By understanding how those little thermocouple probes work, and how to design your wiring properly, you can rest assured that taking your engine’s temperature is easy, reliable and accurate. Plane and simple!

The post Taking Your Engine’s Temperature appeared first on KITPLANES.

Badland Aircraft, a manufacturer of Part 103 legal ultralights with folding wings, have been working through an order backlog that has customers waiting months on product deliveries. Chris Deuel, Badland’s owner, announced at the show that they have recently acquired a CNC cutting machine that allows production to increase by a 3-fold factor.

Much of their fabrication time is spend cutting and welding the steel tubes that make up their ultralight fuselage cages. Joining multiple small tubes together for welding requires precision cuts that are time consuming when done by hand. The new CNC machinery drastically reduces this time and provides a better fit. Chris says that modern technology results in customers getting their orders much quicker now. All of their models are designed capable of being 100% Part 103 legal and can be purchased as kits or completely finished. Visit their website for more information: www.badlandaircraft.com

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